Day 1 -2– March 9-10th
We had a 9:30pm flight from Washington Dulles over to Abu Dhabi on Eithiad. Fortunately at the airport I was able to use my credit card priority pass to get us into the Air France/KLM lounge where I had some champagne and sandwiches before boarding the flight.
The flight was full and I was in the middle with my husband on the aisle. The 12 hour flight was uneventful and I was able to get ~3 hours sleep during movies. We landed in Abu Dhabi on time around 7pm and then after some confusion went through passport control. Since our flight to Kathmandu was not until 9:30am the next day we were spending the night at the Premier Inn Abu Dhabi connected to the airport.
Day 3
We went through security around 6am and then had breakfast at Montreux Jazz Café. At an exchange rate of 3.4 AED to 1 USD it was ~$20 per person, but it was a great breakfast of French toast, cappuccino, and fresh orange juice. There was ice in the orange juice so my husband is convinced he will die.
We board the flight to Kathmandu and had a 3.5 hour trip. Flight was pretty much all trekkers and Nepalese men. Once we arrived in Kathmandu it was a bit chaotic. We had submitted our Visa paperwork online so just had to wait in the line to pay the visa fee and then go through immigration. We collected our bags and went to the area to meet our guide but by this time it was pouring rain. The one guy asked who we were looking for and I told him and he called our guide. He and two other guys grabbed our bags and took us outside. Then one said we should pay each of them $10. I did just to get out of there but now my husband is on the warpath about it.
We got in the guide van and were driven to the hotel. The roads were crazy, between the cars, motorbikes, and people walking in the middle of the road. I even saw three cows and a monkey. After a final standoff in a narrow alleyway against oncoming traffic we made it to the hotel. The hotel was very nice and seemed to be one of the nicest buildings around. We were tired so we just had dinner at the hotel in a lounge overlooking the city. We were the only two in the lounge and prices were cheap with $38 covering two meals with drinks and dessert. After that we went back to the room and watched Animal Planet for a few hours since it was the only channel in English.
Day 4
I had a hard time sleeping so we got up early and had breakfast. At 8:30 we met with the rest of the group. In our group we had Joe and his son Jake and daughter Grace from Dallas and Helen from the UK.
The first activity for the day was a cultural tour. The first stop was a Hindu temple where we saw a body getting ready to be cremated and lots of monkeys. After the Hindu temple we went to see a Buddhist site. At the Buddhist site the guide took us to a school where they taught very detailed painting. I ended up buying one of the paintings that brought “healing and wellness” for $35 and once again my husband made fun of me. Then we went to this shop where they made healing bowls and they put one on my husband’s head. After that we went back to the hotel and had lunch at a café just down the street. We also went searching for an ATM and finally found one that worked on the third try.
At 3pm we had our trek briefing to go over the trip and arrange gear. During the briefing my dad texted me that a plane had crashed at Kathmandu airport and killed ~50 people. This was not reassuring given Lukla was already known to be treacherous. After the briefing we had a break until 6:30 when we had our welcome dinner. The welcome dinner was just down the street and was a sampling of Nepali food with a dance and singing show.
Day 5 (Lukla @ 2,840m to Phakding @ 2610m)
We met the group at 6am this morning, stored our suitcases and drove to the airport. The domestic terminal reminded me more of a bus terminal. Our plane was a little 16-seater with one seat on each side. The flight wasn’t bad and we were flying between mountains – it reminded me of the scene from Star Wars. The plane landed in the village of Lukla on a short runway with a brick wall at the end so pilots have to make a hard right after they land.
We relaxed at Lukla for 2 hours before having a lunch of grilled cheese, coleslaw, beans, and fries. After lunch we left Lukla to go to Phakding. Today’s walking time was about 2 hours and 40 minutes covering ~4.8 miles. Along the way we passed a lot of horse trains. It was amazing to see how much porters were carrying. We crossed a long suspension bridge that shook up and down. When we got to Phakding we checked into the tea house and had some tea. The rooms were nice with an attached Western style bathroom.
We had a few hour break before dinner so was able to squeeze in an hour and a half nap. For dinner I had spaghetti bolognese, which was good. We were so exhausted that after dinner we went back to the room and fell asleep by 8pm. The tea house was the beer garden inn but the room sign said “bear garden” providing slight amusement.
Day 6 (Phakding @ 2610 to Namche Bazaar @ 3440m)
We had a 6:30am wakeup with tea this morning then we packed up and headed down to breakfast. For breakfast I had coffee and a chocolate chip pancake. Around 8am we left for Namche. We hiked for ~3 hours over relatively up and down terrain. We had to cross a number of suspension bridges and navigate around multiple mule trains. At the lunch spot I had french fries with an egg on top. After lunch we walked on flat ground for a bit and then started the climb to Namche Bazaar. For ~3 hours it was steep climbing and switchbacks. At one point we had to cross a suspension bridge almost 300 feet above the river. Finally we reached Namche after 3300 feet of climbing and ~7.5 miles.
Namche is a good-sized town set into the hillside with many of the modern amenities. Our hotel, Hotel Khangri, is very nice with a double bed, power, and connected western bathroom and free charging in room and wifi. For dinner I had a Yak steak and my husband and I split some apple pie. I was asleep a little after 8pm.
Day 7 – Acclimatization Day at Namche
Today was a “rest day” so we just did a three hour hike to the Everest View Hotel. For breakfast I had sausage, eggs, potatoes, and a chapati vegetable roll with yak cheese. In hindsight this was a bad decision before a tough hike. Around 8:30 we started the hike, which was pretty much straight up never ending rock stairs. It was only 1.75 miles to the Everest View Hotel but we climbed over 1,400 feet to the hotel at 12,700 feet. The hotel is a luxury hotel where some guests take a helicopter straight to. We sat on the outside balcony that had a view of Everest but it was cloudy so we couldn’t see the peak.
The hike back down was significantly faster and only took 45 minutes. When we got back we had lunch and I had a yak burger. After lunch we walked around Namche and my husband and I both got matching fake Northface fleeces and fleece lined buffs. After this we went back to the hotel to read for a bit before taking a nap.
We had dinner at 6:30 and I had spaghetti bolognese with yak meat. My husband and I then split a fried Snickers bar for desert. After dinner our guide told us about a 7 day tour they had for ~$20K per person where you took a helicopter to each of the famous base camps. However, you could only stay ~15 minutes because not being acclimated.
Day 8 – Trek to Tengboche (3860m)
Today we had our 7am wake up with tea and then met at 8am for breakfast. For breakfast I had an apple pancake with honey. Around 9am we left for Tengboche. First we climbed the stairs out of Namche, then had a flat section before descending 200m to the lunch stop. At some point I got dirt or dust in my eye so it was painful most of the day. Since we can’t have meat or dairy past Namche due to the lack of consistent electricity I had French fries with egg. The bathroom here was just a cutout in a piece of wood with a pit of straw underneath.
After lunch we had to climb 600m to Tengboche. The first part was very steep and the guides told us the next section would be gradual. Gradual was still pretty steep. In Tengboche the tea houses are very limited so there is no attached bathroom but it is down the hall and has a western toilet so all is well. Once we got to Tengboche we had tea then went to see the monastery but they were closed so we will try again tomorrow.
Tonight for dinner is French onion soup and vegetable momo. Dinner was good and we were asleep even before 8pm. When we woke up the room was 40 degrees and we could see our breath.
Day 9 – Tengboche to Dingboche (4410m)
Wakeup today was at 6:30 and we had breakfast at 7:30. Breakfast was a pancake and scrambled eggs. A little after 8 we left for Dingboche. First we climbed down into the valley and then up through Deboche. After about an hour and a half we stopped for tea. From there it was a gradual incline to where we had lunch. I had a hot mango and vegetable fried rice. After lunch we started the gradual climb through dusty areas with lots of rocks that looked similar to Kilimanjaro. During this time it started to get cold and windy and by the time we arrived in Dingboche it was starting to snow.
We checked in at the lodge and had hot tea and biscuits. After that we went to the rooms. Thankfully this room had an attached bathroom. Unfortunately, it was a squattie and we are here for two nights and the toilet situation will likely only get worse as we get higher. For dinner I had steamed potato momo. It was ok. I was asleep by 8:30.
Day 10 – Dingboche Acclimatization Hike
We woke up around 7am and the temperature in the room was 30 degrees. I had a Stinger Waffle as a snack and it was frozen solid. Today I put on a thin base layer under my trekking pants and had on my smart wool top, down jacket, and shell. For breakfast I had a black coffee and a chocolate pancake.
After breakfast we hiked up 200-300m to an overlook with a great view of Everest and Dingboche. The total hike took about 2.5 hours. We had lunch when we got back and I had Seabuckthorn juice, which is from a local berry. I was not a fan of the taste. I also had a chapati and 2 fried eggs. After lunch we changed and then came back to the dining room to read and relax. For dinner I had vegetable fried momo and chapati. I think we were asleep by 9pm.
Day 11 – Dingboche to Loboche (4910m)
Today we woke at 7am and had breakfast at 8. I had a chocolate pancake with honey. A little after 9 we started out for Loboche. The first part of the trek was a very gradual climb through plains with lots of rocks. After trekking for a little under three hours we arrived at the lunch spot. For lunch I had a hot mango and fries with two eggs.
After lunch we had a 45 minute steep climb. At the top of the climb were the memorials to many of the climbers who had died on Everest. We saw Rob Hall and Scott Fisher’s memorials among many others. From the memorials it was another hour of relatively flat hiking to Loboche. Loboche is pretty small and the minimum room rate is 500 rupees ($5 USD). Our room is nice but back to a communal bathroom. So far two are squatties but we did find one downstairs which is a western style toilet. The central stove for heat tonight is using yak dung.
Day 12 – Loboche to Gorak Shep (5140m) and EBC
We had an early start this morning for the three hour hike to Gorak Shep. The first part of the hike was relatively flat with a gradual incline. Towards the end it got steep with needing to climb some ridges. When we reached Gorak Shep we had a quick lunch and then repacked for the trek to EBC.
We trekked about two hours or so to Base Camp at 5364m. At base camp we could only get to the outcrop viewing point but could still see a few tents set up and had a good view of the Khumbu ice fall. We also saw a number of yak trains and porters hauling gear to base camp. After the photos and fan fare at EBC we hiked another 1.5-2 hours back to Gorak Shep.
When we got back we were all thoroughly exhausted and had headaches. We had tea and biscuits and then ordered dinner. We had dinner at 6pm because we were all so tired. At our briefing for the next day Netra told us we would be waking up at 5am and leaving at 5:30am at the latest to climb Kala Patthar at 5550m. Neither one of us slept well that night.
Day 13 – Kala Patthar and descent to Pheriche
We woke up at 5am and quickly put on our warmest clothes. It was still dark outside so we grabbed our headlamps. My husband was mad at me because he thought I hid his Mars bar and couldn’t find it to eat for breakfast. Around 5:30am we headed out. It was so cold the Camelbaks froze and my toes froze. I was following Mila and was creating a gap with everyone else so had to keep stopping which made it even colder. My husband told me he was turning around but when no one else turned around he didn’t want to be the only one so kept going.
A little further up Netra told me I could go ahead and didn’t need to wait. The last bit to the summit was very steep and required climbing over large rocks but finally I made it. Once I got there I took some photos and had a snack and waited ~20 minutes for my husband and the rest to arrive. After they arrived we took some more photos and rested a bit. Thankfully by that time the sun was out so it was starting to warm up.
The hike down took ~45 minutes and when we got back to Gorak Shep we had hot tea and put in our breakfast order. While breakfast was cooking we packed our bags. After breakfast we trekked ~2 hours back to Loboche where we had lunch. I wasn’t very hungry so just had egg drop soup and some pringles.
After lunch we trekked another ~3 hours to Pheriche. During this part we walked past the memorials again and had to carefully cross a stream with glacier water. At some point I was fiddling with my camera and dropped a mitten. Turns out a random porter found it and was trying it on but Mila got it back. The views coming into Pheriche were incredible with a mountain rising out of the mist. We were excited to reach the tea house though after ~8 hours of hiking for the day.
The lodge was very nice. There were a bunch of hipsters there break dancing and doing yoga and someone brought a hula hoop. We found out they were part of a group building schools and had just started their trek so had a lot of energy. After dinner we were in bed by 8pm and it was freezing.
Day 14 – Back to Kathmandu!
The room was freezing in the morning (20 degrees) and the camelbaks had frozen. We woke up at 6:45 and packed our bags and got to breakfast at 8am. Netra told us the helicopter would be there around 8:30. It was a bit late but around 8:45 we walked out to the field where it would land. Shortly after we saw the helicopter come into view.
Once it landed they unloaded the cargo of food and beer and we got on. I was upfront and my husband was in the back and it was a tight squeeze with six people and the pilot. The pilot said the bags wouldn’t fit so were left for the time being. The pilot also told us he would try to take off with six of us but if he couldn’t get off the ground, two would have to get out and he would come back. Thankfully he was able to get off the ground with all six of us. The scenery was amazing as we flew back to Lukla to refuel. The ~10 minute flight saved us at least two days of walking.
When we landed in Lukla there was some confusion around what to do with the bags. After some discussion the pilot told us to wait in Lukla while he went back for the bags. We went to a teahouse and waited about half an hour for the helicopter to return. When it came back our bags were there along with Netra and Mila who had hitched a ride back to save the walk.
The pilot loaded us back in the helicopter along with the bags which he could now take due to the lower altitude. The flight to Kathmandu was ~45 minutes. The first part was pretty but then smogged over as we got close to Kathmandu. After we landed we were loaded into a truck and brought to the terminal where Mr. Pradip met us. Soon we were in the van on the way back to the hotel. Once we got back to the hotel, checked in, and got our bags it was a rush for the showers.
After a long shower and shave we set out to find somewhere to eat. We made the mistake of going to this terrible coffee house but bad service but the burger was ok. At 3:30 I had a massage. It was a mixture of deep tissue, pressure point, and some Thai stretching exercises, including being pulled up by my arms behind my back.
After that my husband and three others from our group relaxed on the hotel rooftop bar with a drink until it was time to meet Mr. Pradip at 6pm. We debriefed with Mr. Pradip and got our shirts and then we went with Joe and his family to Fire & Ice, a local pizza place. We all enjoyed pizza, beer, and even ice cream. Once we got back to the hotel we were asleep by 9pm.
Day 15 – Exploring Kathmandu
Today we slept in a bit, had a leisurely breakfast and bid farewell to Joe and family. After that we walked to see the Yak and Teri hotel and then wandered around the tourist district for some shopping. We both found “North Fake” jackets for $22 each and then I picked up 4 pashminas for $5 each. My husband then bargained for these mini Nothface bags for two for $6. Then we had lunch at an outdoor café and I had some paneer palak.
After lunch my husband decided he wanted to bargain for some larger North Fake bags and after much searching reached an agreement of 2 for $22.50. Then he bought two T-Shirts and I bought two patches before we headed back to the hotel. We had considered going to the monkey temple but it was getting late so we hung out on the rooftop bar and had some beers and snacks. After that we headed back to the pizza place for some polenta and lasagna. Tonight we finally stayed up past 9:30pm.
Day 16 – Flight to Abu Dhabi
Today we also slept in and had a slow breakfast before returning to the room to pack. After that we watched some TV (Animal Planet again) until a little after 11am. Then we checked out and had a lunch of a sandwich, chicken wings, and apple pie. After relaxing a bit more outside, Netra met us with the shuttle driver to take us to the airport. We checked in, dropped off our bags, cleared passport control, and then read for half an hour before the flight boarded. The flight took off a bit late but we still managed to get in 20 minutes early. Since we had been in Abu Dhabi before we were able to use the e-gates which made passport control super quick. We got to the hotel around 8pm and were asleep a little before 10pm.
